What's Lurking Behind the ‘Slavic Bimbo’ Aesthetic?
As a character on dating shows like 90 Day Fiancé, she can be assertive, albeit materialistic, but she always ends up at the financial behest of the men across the Atlantic. She may melt down in front of the cameras, but never without a full face of makeup and blown-out hair. Originally, she’s from a small village, or otherwise a crumbling, rectangular apartment block. Her last name is unpronounceable, her accent soft and simpering, and any of her agency is drowned out by her desperate circumstances.
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The stereotype of the sexed-up Slavic woman comes from trends that affected Slavic and Eastern European countries following the fall of the Soviet Union, and the chaotic transition from communism to capitalism in the 90s and early 2000s. While traditional Soviet values rested upon women both working and mothering children, the free entry of Western media, magazines, and values, along with a rapidly shifting economic landscape, lead women in the post-Soviet space to begin prioritising their looks, cultivating a hyper-feminine aesthetic, and creating themselves an image in the Western world somewhere between an old-timey housewife and a made-up gold-digger.
However, this hyper-glamorous, feminine aesthetic was more than just a newfound sense of materialism. In some sense, it was also a tactic for economic ascension. According to Holly Porteous of Swansea University, who analysed the relationship between Western-style women’s magazines and beauty standards in her article “From Barbie to the oligarch’s wife: Reading fantasy femininity and globalisation in post-Soviet Russian women’s magazines”, the “Barbie doll” standard could have real material implications for women’s lives. Porteous writes that “Winning beauty contests gave women in the early post-Soviet era the opportunity to date or even marry” the class of wealthy businessmen and oligarchs that emerged after the economic transition. One of the women she interviewed for her research, named Lara, asserted that the presence of this new class was the reason for the very existence of such high expectations for women’s looks. “We have a certain standard of beauty which is set by rich men,” she said, adding that “they want to have a Barbie doll beside them that they can show off to everyone else”. These ideas also played into the psyches of women who flooded the mail order bride industry in the 1990s, seeking to flee their countries for a better life abroad.
“The stereotype of the sexed-up Slavic woman comes from trends that affected Slavic and Eastern European countries following the fall of the Soviet Union, and the chaotic transition from communism to capitalism in the 90s and early 2000s.”
In the modelling world, the romanticisation and fetishisation of Slavic women began in the early 2000s. Partly due to the fall of the Iron Curtain, and additionally due to backlash against the supermodels of the 90s from designers such as Miuccia Prada, this proliferation led to the exclusion of women of colour from modelling and the repetitious casting of similar-looking models from Eastern Europe. "When Eastern Europe opened up, when that bloc fell down, and scouts started going into Eastern Europe, that's when it all started to change", Bethann Hardison, a model and activist for diversity within the fashion industry, said in the Vogue documentary “Supreme Models”. What followed was a period referred to as the “white out”, where runways and designers prioritised uniformity rather than diversity and personality.
Although Slavic models became the hottest commodity in the industry, and enjoyed enormous privilege when it came to castings, they too suffered from exploitation, fatigue, and extreme pressure to maintain early-2000s thinness. In many cases, models such as Irina Shayk, whose life trajectory was described as “going from life as a simple farm girl in nowhere, Russia to a global celebrity” by VMan magazine, came from impoverished backgrounds, and the unstable modelling industry was their way out.
The Slavic bimbo aesthetic has been revived in 2023 and its negative impact extends far beyond the runway this time around. The treatment of women who fled Ukraine upon the Russian invasion is a case in point. As millions of Ukrainian women left their homes behind and sought refuge abroad, online communities, mainly comprised of Western men, began lauding their beauty and cooking abilities. Aside from being openly fetishistic, such comments online also fell into traps of white supremacy. “Although the traditional beauty standard for Ukrainian women has historically called for deep brown eyes, dark eyebrows, and tan skin, these images tend to portray buxom blonde and blue-eyed girls wearing heavy makeup”, Kyiv-based journalist and translator Oleksandra Poworoznyk wrote for Foreign Policy.
But perhaps most chilling is the fact that while many among the refugees fleeing Ukraine had faced sexual assault at the hands of Russian soliders, porn searches for Ukrainian women across the West shot up almost overnight after the war began. Within six months of the beginning of the invasion, there was a 200% increase in online searches for “Ukrainian escorts” in the UK as well as a 600% rise in searches for “Ukrainian porn” in Spain. The results of this sexualisation were so drastic that in March, the Organisation for Security and Co-operation in Europe (OSCE) launched a campaign to help provide Ukrainian refugees with resources to protect themselves from human trafficking and sexual exploitation.
The aestheticisation of Slavic women toes a fine line. Though there is certainly well-intentioned cultural appreciation in the revival of the aesthetic as something to be reclaimed in 2023, it’s also a symbol of the glamorisation and sexualisation of women’s struggles through wartime, economic hardship, and pressures to conform to impossible standards of beauty.
Words: Katarzyna Maria Skiba